Precious architectures

Skyscrapers, squares, churches, monuments and cities are dressed in gold, silver, mother of pearl, diamonds and precious stones. It happens when the world of jewelry and watchmaking meets that of architecture. When accessory designers look big to design the little one: when the details of those buildings become the cue to draw the lines and balances of rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and timepieces.

A path traveled in the opposite direction by many creatives - just think of the goldsmith's studies of the sculptor and designer Harry Bertoia or the career of Ettore Sottsass started right from the jewels - which is increasingly chosen by luxury maisons. And not just today. It was the autumn of 1987, in fact, when the Première was born in the Chanel house: the octagonal case watch inspired by Place Vendôme, the square in Paris where Mademoiselle Chanel lived for over thirty years staying at the famous Hotel Ritz. While it is from 1999, the year of its creation, that Bulgari's Bzero1 ring mentions the geometry and the imposing majesty of the Colosseum, the symbol par excellence of Rome. An iconic jewel that a few years ago strengthened its link with the world of design thanks to a restyling signed by the archistar Zaha Hadid, who in the B.zero1 Design Legend ring put all the fluidity and sensuality of his projects.

From Italy to the United States with the Tiffany City HardWear line by Tiffany & Co, inspired by the spirit and energy of the Big Apple, and with the New York Collection by Harry Winston, which in its high jewelery pieces recalls the symbols of the American city, from the bright lights of Broadway to the green of Central Park to the Cathedral of St. Patrick. Or, finally, with the Inspired By Architecture Limited Edition watch proposed by Mido: a limited edition model that the Swiss company, always linked to contemporary architecture, has dedicated to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, the revolutionary museum designed by architect Frank Lloyd Wright. Architectural works but not only: there are also those who pay homage to the theories of the great masters. As Rado did with the True Thinline Les Couleurs collection: a line of watches entirely in hi-tech ceramic that celebrate the architect Le Corbusier and in particular his Architectural Polychromy, a color palette made up of 63 shades still used today by designers and architects from all over the world.

Article written for Mohd and signed by Ilenia Carlesimo, La Repubblica contributor journalist.

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